Every year, thousands of us deal with our car or motorcycle not starting. That dull sound of the starter motor struggling to turn over is never a welcome one!
So if your car won't start, but the lights and radio work; Or your motorcycle won't start, but it turns over; or the starter motor just clicks, this guide is for you. There are numerous causes of starting issues with any engine. These are a few of the most typical ones:
WHEN THE ENGINE WON'T CRANK
A Discharged Battery
The majority of cars require 10.5 volts or more to start, which is approximately equal to the voltage of a completely dead battery. It is simple to run down the battery below 10 volts if you have inadvertently left the inside lights "on" or any other electrical load powered. By measuring the battery's open-circuit voltage, you can swiftly rule out a dead battery. For instance, you can rule out a dead battery as a possible cause if your car is only detecting 12.8 volts and won't start. Remember to let the car run for two to three hours if the cause is a dead battery, or use a smart battery charger. After a thorough discharge, the battery must be fully charged to extend its lifespan.
A Bad Battery
Many factors, including age, misuse, heat, poor quality, and incorrect charging, can lead to a damaged battery. Battery sulfating and internal shorting of the battery cell are the two most frequent causes of defective batteries. Lead-acid batteries can experience battery sulfation if they are not given enough charge or are left in a discharged state.
Its capacity decreases as the situation worsens over time. Battery sulfation eventually results in the battery losing its ability to hold a charge and having trouble maintaining the voltage required to start the car. When two of the internal battery plates come into contact, the battery cell is said to be shorted. Consequently, there will be a short in the battery cells, turning the 12-volt battery into a 10-volt battery.
When the substance that keeps battery cells apart, known as the separator, degrades, internal cell contact occurs. There are many reasons why battery operators malfunction, but among of the most frequent ones are high temperatures in the surrounding air, overcharging, overdischarge, and high charging rates. The simplest method to find out if your battery is defective is to run an electrical load test.
A battery charger like the Provacell HyperCharge can be set to a desulphation mode, which will work on the battery to remove sulphation, extending its life.
Poor Electrical Connectivity
Current flow is restricted by a loose battery cable or battery connection. A worn-out or damaged battery cable may also restrict the flow of current. Examine the battery cable for any signs of dry, cracked, or peeling plastic insulation. Verify that every battery connection is tight, and replace any damaged battery terminals or cables.
Corrosion On The Terminals
One of the best resistors is battery corrosion. The amount of current that may flow can be severely restricted by battery deterioration. Clean and get rid of any battery corrosion, if any is present.
A Bad Starter Motor
A defective starter functions a lot like a malfunctioning battery and charging mechanism. Having said that, ensure sure your charging mechanism is operating correctly and your battery is in good condition. Your engine will probably turn over very slowly and the lights inside and outside will probably get weaker if you have a bad starter. Furthermore, scientists have observed that when a starter malfunctions, the battery connections and battery wires will get quite hot.
Unreliable Charging System
A correctly operating charging system should provide a charging voltage of about 14 volts. When the car is not moving and there are no loads "on," this is the basic voltage. The state of charge of the attached battery, the load on the electrical system, and the outside temperature will all affect the alternator's charging voltage. The charging voltage is higher in colder climates.
The charging voltage drops in warm weather. For instance, the charging voltage range might be 13.9–14.4V in mild weather and 14.9–15.6V in cold weather. Should the charging system fail to provide a sufficient voltage, the alternator or regulator may be the cause. You could go around the regulation to find the most likely offender. It's the regulator if the charging voltage starts to rise. The alternator is the cause if the charging voltage remains constant. It's usually the alternator.
The alternator experiences a dip in charging voltage when one or more of its diodes fail. The alternator is still generating current, but its output voltage is now insufficient to restore the capacity of the depleted battery. With an oscilloscope, you might see the alternator's waveform and identify the issue. Running your car and then unplugging the positive battery line from the battery is another quick and easy way to test the alternator. The alternator is most likely the issue if the car or motorcycle shuts off when you disconnect this battery terminal.
Ineffective Clutch Switch (or Sidestand Switch on Motorcycles)
There are occasions when the clutch's safety switch fails or breaks. When depressed or triggered, this safety switch allows your car to start. When the engine cranks but doesn't turn over. On some motorcycles, the sidestand switch also cuts the ignition and this can get caked in road grime, so give this a clean to check it works correctly.
WHEN THE ENGINE CRANKS BUT DOESN'T START
Poor Ignition
For the fuel to ignite and start, all vehicles require compression or a spark. Starting troubles could be caused by faults with the ignition coils or spark plugs. Since sparks must ignite at the precise moment and with the right amount of voltage, ignition timing problems are also a possibility.
An ignition system breakdown usually precedes warning indications. These are the initial signs if the car is hard to start, runs rough, or is just hard to start. Remove the spark plug wire and ground it against an engine's metal surface to check for ignition issues. Make sure there are no combustible liquids (such as petrol) in the area, and avoid handling the spark plug wire as it may shock you.
Turn the engine on and check for sparks. It's not the spark plug if you see a spark. If there isn't any spark, there may be an issue with the distributor, coil pack, crankshaft, or camshaft position sensors. Next, use a scanner to look for any problems in your fault codes. Check fuses and relays using a multimeter if the readings are negative. Verify if the sensors are experiencing resistance. Verify that power is reaching the coil pack. The coil is defective if voltage is detected.
Running Low on Fuel
It may seem foolish, but it has happened to the most of us. Fuel must compress in order for an engine to start. The engine may crank but the car won't start if the petrol tank is empty. Remember that operating your car near or at empty will not be good for the fuel pump or fuel filter as it can cause starvation and make the pump overheat. Some older cars and motorcycles don't like the new E10 fuel which contains ethanol and can also damage the resin in some older tanks.
A Worn Starter Motor
An alternator's bearings, bushings, and gears might wear out and prevent the car from starting. Wear on a starter can be easily identified. Your headlights might need to be replaced if they are bright when the car is "off" but less brilliant when it is "on."
A Clogged Air Filter
Verify that there is enough air entering the cylinders. Make sure the air filter is clear by checking for clogs. Examine any ducting or air inlets that may have material clogging them. Even though it's not often the reason, it's still worthwhile to look into why a car won't start.
Clogged Injectors or Fuel Filters
Similar to an air filter, a blockage in the fuel system can prevent fuel from getting to the engine. A malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator, a gasoline leak, a clogged fuel filter, or blocked fuel injectors could be the cause of an engine that isn't receiving enough fuel. A faulty gasoline pump is the most frequent. It is not too difficult to inspect the fuel pump. Find the fuel pump and pay particular attention to the engine's starting noise. The pump should prime with a "whinny" sound. If not, there is not enough power being delivered to the fuel pump. Check the fuel pump with a multimeter. The gasoline pump is probably broken if voltage is being received.
A Faulty Fuel Pump
The primary function of a fuel pump is to transfer fuel from the tank into the engine. The engine sputters at high speeds, loses power when accelerating, has a sudden loss of power, or surges, all of which finally result in the engine not starting. These are the most typical symptoms of a failed fuel pump. As long as fuel isn't getting to the engine, the engine will keep turning but never catch. Make sure there is pressure in the gasoline line and look for a blown fuse in order to identify a failing fuel pump.
